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Austin American Statesman review of El Greco Greek Restaurant
Angela Shelf Medearis review of El Greco Greek Restaurant

Greek food fit for the gods elevates El Greco

I have the ultimate food-lover’s dream job. I get paid to think about food, research culinary history, create recipes, write, teach, cook and eat for a living. I’m often asked to act as a judge for cooking competitions, and I do a cooking show on public television called “The Kitchen Diva.” Don’t hate me because I’m wellfed. Even though I love my career, from time to time I experience sensory overload.
Fortunately, Jake Konstantinidis, the chef and owner of El Greco Restaurant at 31st and Guadalupe streets, always has a delicious and authentic Greek menu filled with everything from appetizers to desserts to entice my weary palate. I met Chef Jake when he came to visit the set of my show, and he prepared some of the best dips I’ve ever tasted. I’m particularly fond of his Feta Cheese Spread and the tarama, a Greek caviar dip. His Feta Cheese Spread has a uniquely piquant flavor and is great as a dip or as a spread on sandwiches or wraps.

The tarama dip is one of my favorite party appetizers, as the caviar adds an elegant, salty back note and a cold creaminess that’s especially delicious when served on crisp, buttery crackers.

Like many Americans, gyros from the food court in a mall were my first introduction to anything resembling Greek food. Chef Jake doesn’t use the compressed lamb-and-beef product on a spinning skewer that most Americans think is the basis of an authentic gyro. He prepares his gyros using a family recipe that features a delectable combination of spices with a flash-roasting technique to ensure the tenderness of the meat.

Chef Jake Konstantinidis - El Greco Greek Restaurant
Chef Jake
I’ve eaten most of the items on El Greco’s menu, but the dish that causes me to take leave of my senses is his moussaka. Moussaka is a traditional Greek dish that showcases the delicate flavor of properly prepared eggplant in a way that few dishes are able to do. Traditional Greek versions usually consist of layers of ground lamb or beef, sliced eggplant and potatoes, and spices topped with a creamy béchamel sauce. I’ve had moussaka in other Greek restaurants, but I think the distinctive difference in Chef Jake’s recipe is his passion for Greek food and his strict adherence to the ancestral recipes passed down to him by his mother, Athina, and his Aunt Kiki. Dessert is the perfect finish for any meal, and everything from the intricately coil-shaped baklava filled with walnuts and honey syrup to the ravani, a Greek cake, are prepared with loving care by Athina.

El Greco has become my favorite place to eat, and it is a testament to the importance of preserving one’s cultural heritage and family recipes. I enjoy sharing El Greco with friends, and Chef Jake loves catering groups, from dinner parties of six to gatherings of 400. As a person who attends numerous banquets, dinners and luncheons where barbecue and beans are mainstays on the menu, I highly recommend Chef Jake’s catering skills and his traditional Greek dishes. They’re crowd-pleasers.

I’m convinced that the only cure for my moussaka madness is more moussaka. I knew that my fondness for this dish had become an addiction when I requested Chef Jake’s moussaka instead of roses for Valentine’s Day. Please, don’t e-mail me with suggestions for an antidote. I don’t want to be cured.

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