El Greco by Rob Balon
For a town that loves Greek food, Austin seems to have precious few eateries that manage to stick around for a while. Ted's Steakhouse on Congress was eminent domained out of business while the popular Athenian Grille on Colorado lost its lease and has yet to reopen. But good news: into that void has stepped the brand new El Greco at 31st and Guadalupe. Don't be confused. El Greco is not a Mexican restaurant. It's named after the famous artist who was born on the isle of Crete and who lived and worked in Toledo, Spain. And he was Greek through and through.
And the owners of El Greco are also Greek though and through. Chef Jake Konstantinidis is the real deal. And his food reflects it.
You have to begin with the dips and spreads at El Greco. They are creative and exceptionally tasty. I am particularly smitten with the Guadalupe dip which uses zucchini and mushrooms to create beautiful flavors. And the traditional Hummus with chickpea, garlic, lemon, parsley and dill is equally hard to pass up. Great texture in this as well. The Tabouli which at the core features Bulgar wheat and finely chopped parsley along with mint, tomato, green onion, and lemon juice. One can easily go over the top on spicing Tabouli, but Jake's flavors are dead on. And also try the Eggplant Dip. A blend of roasted eggplants, lemon, herbs and spices, it goes wonderfully (as they all do) with a hot a crispy Pita wedge.
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Chef Jake Konstantinidis |
The Greek Village Salad has got all the requisite veggies plus a little feta, some grilled gyro meat, and a boatload of flavor. On the South Beach diet? Here is your entrée! And I very much like the traditional Greek chicken soup called Chicken Avgolemono. It's got a very mellow flavor and of course that lemon-scented broth. And what Greek meal could begin without a little Saganaki? This classic flame-grilled feta cheese is easy on the eyes and the palate.
On to the more substantive fare, you have to start with the Souvlaki or Kebobs. The beef skewers are my favorite. A robust and hearty flavor characterizes this dish. And the Gyro Platter is also a must sample. They offer both the traditional and a more subtle chicken gyro. Both are excellent with those classic flavors. With a grilled pita, onion, tomatoes, and tzatsiki sauce, this is about as good as it gets. This is almost a weekly imperative for me. And the classic eggplant and beef casserole known as Moussaka is well represented at El Greco. The textures are perfect and the taste as it should be: subtle and refined. And also try the Pastitsio. This is better known as Greek lasagna and it's made with tubes of pasta, ground beef and spices, and topped with béchamel sauce. Despite the description, this is not a heavy dish. Chef Jake executes this one beautifully.
I absolutely adore the Baklava as the proper end to my feast at El Greco. For once, a baklava that it not overindulgent in rose water! The chopped walnuts, honey syrup and cinnamon are simply not to be resisted. I certainly can't.
So let us celebrate Greeks bearing gifts: those being the culinary pearls of El Greco!
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